Originally written by Carl White.
Two favorite destinations for local residents who don’t have the time or money to travel extensively in the summer are Little Captain’s Island (Island Beach) and Great Captain’s Island. Connected to Island Beach by a sand spit at low tide is Wee Captain’s Island, a privately-owned property. It’s believed that these islands were named after Captain Daniel Patrick, who was a pre-Revolutionary War commander. He and the Feakes purchased land in Old Greenwich from the Native Americans.
The first known private owner of the islands was Dr. Nathaniel Worden, who sold them to Justus Bush. When Bush died in 1760, the islands were left to his son, Justus Bush III, and some other children. In 1761, New York resident John Anderson petitioned his state for ownership of the islands. Anderson was granted a patent, which in effect gave him dual ownership. In 1764, Justus Bush sued Anderson for trespassing, when he found Andeson cutting wood on Great Captain’s Island. The Superior Court of Fairfield County found in favor of Bush, and thus Connecticut. Ownership remained a point of contention between New York and Connecticut until 1879 when a special commission granted the islands to Connecticut.
During the 20th Century, Island Beach underwent many changes. An Island Beach Corporation opened an amusement park on the island, featuring a merry-go-round, shooting gallery, booth games, goldfish tank, a dance hall, a restaurant, and one- and three-room bungalows. The carousel was operated by hand. It was eventually removed since someone had been injured on the ride. Over time, business fell off due to the short season and World War I. Judge James Walsh, who was a First Selectman, State Senator, and State Treasurer, owned it for a while. Then, business dropped off greatly due to tough economic times and the shortage of men enlisting during World War I. In 1916, the island was up for sale, but, unfortunately, the RTM rejected the purchase in 1918 since they were involved in purchasing Sandy Point Beach off Mead’s Point as a public beach. Eventually, the Sandy Beach sale fell through. Then two families, the Lauders and the Greenways, bought the island and donated it to the town as a gift for use by the townspeople on October 24, 1918. It was donated in memory of George L. Lauder, Jr, who died of influenza at the age of 37. The famous fighter Gene Tunney was present at the ceremony. (He had married Polly Lauder).
Two Mead’s Point residents, Mrs. Wilks and Mrs. Campbell, donated money for a ferry. The first one (the Island Beach) sailed in 1920. Sanford Mead was the Captain, and he was assisted by engineer Winfield Mills. In 1937 another boat – The Indian Harbor – was purchased. It could hold up to 256 passengers. Riders paid 10 cents to ride, while children rode for free during the week. On weekends, children paid 10 cents to ride. Island Beach became so popular that people started coming out by train from New York City. It wasn’t long before the ferry became overcrowded. Private boat owners seized the opportunity to make some extra money. They charged 25 cents to carry the overflow of people to the island. One owner from Stamford sailed the 50-foot sailboat Massasoit with passengers, who got soaking wet since there was no cabin for the riders to sit in! To address the problem of overcrowding, the town introduced beach cards to limit use to residents. However, this was not effectively enforced until the 1950s.
Since there’s now a full-time caretaker on the island, it’s necessary for the person to have a boat to get back and forth to the mainland. He has to bring in his own supplies. Water has to be shipped out by boat since wells cannot be used due to saltwater intrusion. At one point, water had to be stored in wooden barrels. In 1936, a 10,000-gallon tank was installed for water. Toilets use salt water.
It’s an ideal job for someone seeking solitude since no one comes after the summer ferry stops. At one time during the 1980s, a writer had the job. He loved the isolation. Some families have lived on the island, making it necessary to take the children daily to the mainland to attend school, etc. It takes a certain type of person to live this kind of lifestyle.
Over the years, weather has had a profound effect on the island. In 1860, Greenwich Harbor and Long Island Sound froze over. A man claimed he was able to walk all the way to Long Island from Greenwich. The same thing happened in 1917 and 1934. In 1938, the bungalows were knocked off their foundations by the Great Hurricane, and in 1955 the dock was ruined by a windstorm. Three bungalows were also washed away. More recently, in 1980 the Beach House and dock were ruined. The White Hurricane of 1992 ruined the dock, and Hurricane Sandy did the same, making it necessary to postpone the opening of Island Beach until July.
The lawsuit to open Greenwich beaches in 1996 led to changes in the fee structure and access to Greenwich beach facilities for out-of-towners. Fears of overcrowding were premature. Out-of-towners now have to get a temporary town pass as well as a ticket to ride the ferry. On the weekends, you’ll find the greatest number of people taking advantage of the barbeque grills and refreshing waters of Long Island Sound. On warm days, you’ll usually find the air is several degrees lower than on the mainland. You also get a great view of the Manhattan skyline.
One of my favorite events is the free concert by a Dixieland Band. They usually board a 4:30 ferry and play while the boat heads down Greenwich Harbor to Island Beach. After an hour of entertaining people on the island, they re-board the ferry and play all the way back to the Arch Street dock.
Another special event is a “Cruise to Nowhere.” Several times in the summer, the boat heads out to destinations like Oyster Bay. You can’t get off because the boat doesn’t dock; but if you’re like me, it satisfies your need for a longer cruise.
We’re very fortunate to have this town park available to the public. It’s a great place to take the children anytime. Many residents view the trip out to Island Beach as a “mini-vacation!”
SOURCES
Island Beach: An Oral History Interview; Oral History Project. Friends of the Greenwich Library; Greenwich, CT.: Greenwich Library, 1979
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